essays by shé

Tag: Southerden

  • Wahines on the Waves

    Bethany Hamilton. At Maureen’s this morning, a break I surfed all February, March, and April. Wow! I grew up in L.A, so celebrities don’t usually thrill me. But I am still smiling hours later after watching this professional surfista paddle out one-armed. Part of it has to do with gender. I didn’t know any girls…